As I mentioned in my newbie post, I swapped a trailer for a 98 Lanos SE 3 door manual hatchback with the 1.5 SOHC motor. The seller (a workmate) informed me of an intermittent starting fault (he was suspecting the fuel pump relay or wiring). He wanted to wreck it but I just couldnt let him as the car only has 110 000 kms on the clock. Anyway, I test drove car during lunch break. RAN VERY WELL. Signed over rego papers. That afternoon I went to start it to go home but it just kept turning over. Waited 10 secs and tried again. Car started and got me home running fine again. Got to work OK the next day too. But got home that arvo and the car hasnt started since. First I swapped the FP relay with the working horn relay and even put in a new one. No good. I then noticed that the fuel pump made no noise upon turing key to ON. I do hear a click in the engine bay fuse box but I couldnt check which one it was. I then went under the rear seat to the FP. I pulled out the FP mostly to see what wire was what on the harness. There are 6 wires; Two for the DC pump (+ and -), two for the fuel gage resistor float arm and two more to a little sensor mounted very low on the FP, WHAT IS THIS SENSOR FOR? Ran the pump out of car on the driveway with 12V which worked. Geez it is pretty noisy (wasnt when the car last ran). Anyway, now knowing which pins on the FP harness were for the DC pump motor (I can draw a pic if anyone needs to know), I tested these with a multimeter...0V upon turning key to ON. I then hardwired the pump to ON power from the blower line from the in car fuse box under the glove box, and and earth of course. Tried to start, no good. Noisy though. Pulled the quick release return line off the fuel rail. Cranked her over and sprayed fuel all over my garage, so it has fuel! QUESTION: WHAT TELLS THE FP TO TURN ON AND OFF? THERE DOESNT SEEM TO BE A PRESSURE SWITCH THAT I HAVE FOUND AS YET.Then pulled out a sparkplug and cracked the engine leaving the plug in the plug cap. No spark at all. Tried another plug. Still no spark. All through this debarkle I have been checking fuses. Nothing blown. Checked all my HT leads with multimeter. They're all about 7K ohms. Is this OK? Ive checked the ECU for water damage internally. None. Looks mickey mouse. Tried jumping pins A and B on the OBD1???(I think) connector for codes but the Check Engine Light (CEL) does not illuminate at all. I atleast expected a 12 (no fault) code. I then pulled the instrument cluster out to check the CEL bulb which was fine. So NO codes to go off .Tearhair Pulled coil pack off. All looks OK but theres not much to look at is there as they are a sealed unit. WHY DOES IT BOLT ON THE END OF THE CRANKSHAFT AREA? WHERE IS THE CRANK ANGLE SENSOR? Car does NOT have an immobiliser as far I can tell. Just an ordinary key, no remote or central locking or anything on this car. NO toroid around the igntion barrell. No clutch switch for starting either. I dont think its relevant but the car does have air con (that doesnt work), but does NOT have power steering. My profile has VIN and Engine numbers if they're important.